Tuesday, February 27, 2007

The end of this story...some final photos and words



Adam playing guitar in a lovely setting at Lake St Clair, Tassie















Me, cycling through the rainforest to Tasmania's highest waterfall






And finally...


This photo seems fitting for the final chapter of our Aussie Wanderings blog...us at Dad's place on the afternoon we arrived back in Port Macquarie...we were greeted by a welcome sign and balloons...

And now for a final update:


We have been busy since returning home, searching for a place to buy and settling back in to life in Port Macquarie, catching up with friends etc. A time of endings and beginnings as we transition into the next phase of our life together.



We have thought of a few more random trip stats (it is, after all, a time for reflection):

Longest drive in one day, towing the caravan: 950 kms, while crossing the Nullarbor

Favourite Cities: Lovely Hobart, then Darwin and Perth

Favourite small touristy town: Handorf- little German town just outside Adelaide

Best windsurf for Adam: Exmouth (graveyards), WA

Best windsurf for Emma : Safety Bay, south of Perth

Best surf for Adam: Angourie, NSW

Best Surf for Emma: Red Bluff, WA

Best hike for Emma : Cradle Mountain summit, Tassie

Best hike for Adam : Mt Eliza, south west national park, Tassie

Best dinner out: on the harbour, Darwin
**********



We had a wonderful time travelling around our great country and it's been great to be able to record our adventures and experiences here, to share them with others and also have them as a permanent record of our trip. Thanks to all of you who logged on and read our blog and left comments for us along the way...it was always a pleasure to read a comment!

We spent so long planning for our trip and saving for it, it's still hard to believe it's now behind us! But there are many future trips still to be enjoyed. :-)

Till our next wanderings...

Love and hugs and happy travels!

Emma & Adam xx

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Another trip photo...




Valentine's Day dinner which Adam cooked up for us in our little cabin in the mountains in Tassie...

More photos soon...internet is a bit slow

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Around Australia Trip Stats

AROUND AUSTRALIA TRIP STATS

Total distance travelled: 43, 330 kilometres!

Total time away: 10 months
Places seen: HEAPS
Good times had: countless

Favourite spots-

TOP DOZEN

Emma:

Karijini NP, WA
Cape Leveque, WA
Green Pools, near Denmark, WA
Tasman, South West & Cradle Mountain National Parks, Tassie
Litchfield National Park, NT
El Questro Station, WA
Esperance, WA
Yamba/Angourie, NSW
Red Bluff Station, WA
Bungle Bungles, WA
Margaret River Region, bays and beaches, WA
Mosman Gorge and rainforest, nth QLD


Adam:

Karijini NP, WA
El Questro Station, WA
Yamba/Angourie, NSW
Warroora Station, WA
Red Bluff Station, WA
Litchfield National Park, NT
Exmouth Peninsula (graveyards windsurfing spot), WA
Mossman Gorge, Northern Qld
Kinka Beach (access to Keppel Island), Qld
South and western Tasmania
Bungle Bungles, WA
Red Centre, NT

Most Overrated places-
Adam: Broome, WA (nice spot, but doesn’t live up to marketing hype), The Sunshine Coast & Cairns, QLD
Emma: Broome, WA (nice spot, but doesn’t live up to marketing hype) & The Sunshine Coast, QLD

Domestic Fights: many (cabin fever)


That’s it for now…slowly adjusting to being back in one place- I keep on wanting to pick up the travel books and start planning out our day…then I remember- we’re HOME now! Was great to sleep in a proper bed and I had a bath last night- heaven.

Love A&E xx

Monday, February 19, 2007

Cradle Mountain pics...




Lovely Dove Lake with the Cradle Mountain peaks in the distance on what turned out to be a lovely clear afternoon... The highest part of the peak is where the hike goes









This is the shot I took on self timer when I finally finished the steep boulder climb and reached the Cradle Mountain Summit, with sensational views...it was a top feeling...and very cold!

Home Sweet Home....

Yes, we are indeed back home in Port Macquarie- an amazing, quite strange feeling it was, to drive back into town today, about 10 months after we set off- we have seen and done so so much inbetween!

We arrived home about 4pm and spent most of the afternoon unpacking the car and caravan- a huge amount of stuff! It was great to see mum and dad again- mum drove in and had a bbq dinner, with apple pie, with us here at Dad's house. We'll be staying here until we can find a place of our own to buy. Mum and Dad have already been searching for us and we even drove around and looked at a couple of possibles this evening after dinner.

After a long, slow drive, with several traffic jams, we arrived in Sydney, at North Ryde caravan park, at about 6pm yesterday, both tired and a bit frazzled. We quickly set up the van and showered, then headed across to Coogee to meet Joanne and Matthew and his little daughter, Marissa, for dinner. It was great to see Jo and meet Matthew and we enjoyed a lovely meal.

Today we drove the 500kms or so back to Port Macquarie- home.

There's lots we want to do- it's actually a bit of a culture shock being back in a house, and the reality sinking in that we are here to stay for a while now. I almost keep thinking I need to check my caravan book to read about the places on the agenda for tomorrow, or the kilometres we'll need to cover. Then I realise I can lay my trip-planning hat, however reluctantly, to rest for a while. Anyway, in the next week or so before Adam returns to work we plan catching up on a few health and beauty appointments, hopefully surfing or windsurfing and of course hunting for a place to buy and meeting with a bank to confirm how much we can borrow!
I will also let people know I am back and available for any work which may be going in my profession.

We have also updated our "animals seen" list, as we had indeed forgotton some creatures...To the fellow who left a comment regarding the eastern quoll- Adam was lucky enough to see one of those at Mt Field National Park.
Here's the updated list:

ANIMALS WE HAVE SEEN ON OUR TRIP AROUND AUSTRALIA

Kangaroos: Red and Grey
Wallabies (Bennetts, Yellow Footed, Rock, white + others….about 5 in total)
Pademelons
Potteroos
Tree kangaroo
Saltwater crocs
Freshwater crocs
Green ringtail possum
Common ringtail possum
Brushtail possum
Brown and white possum (cant remember official name)
echidna
Emus
Camels
Long-nose bandicoot
Eastern barred bandicoot
Small bandicoot
Melomys (like a small mouse)
White tailed rat
Platypi
Tasmanian devils
Spotted quoll
Eastern quoll
Western quoll
Koalas
Wombats
dingoes
Dugong
Turtles- loggerhead and green
Sharks- black tip, white tip, tiger, lemon
Humpback whale
Dolphins- Indian and bottlenose
Seals
Little penguins
Lots and lots of fish
Manta rays
Sting rays
Eagle rays
Olive pythons
Tiger snakes
Tree snakes
Lots of lizards!
Rabbits
And of course lots and lots of birds, some rare and endangered


Will keep blogging- have plenty of new chapters starting and will also post some more photos from Tassie etc to include here. My Dad has been kindly printing out our blog updates along the way- he has put them together in a folder for us and it's like a little book of our travels, which will sit perfectly with our many, many photo albums from the trip.

Meanwhile, we hope we may see our travelling friends Mick and Sarah in a few weeks when they are travelling through Port Macquarie on their way home.

Love and hugs,
The Returned Travelllers, A&E xx

Saturday, February 17, 2007

Animals we have seen on our journey- many and varied!

We've been reflecting on all we've seen and done, and all the wildlife we have been lucky enough to see on the way. Here is a list of the animals we can think of at the moment (there could be others we have left out):

ANIMALS WE HAVE SEEN ON OUR TRIP AROUND AUSTRALIA

Kangaroos: Red and Grey
Wallabies (Bennetts, Yellow Footed, Rock, white + others….about 5 in total)
Pademelons
Potteroos
Tree kangaroo
Saltwater crocs
Freshwater crocs
Green ringtail possum
Common ringtail possum
Brushtail possum
Brown and white possum (cant remember official name)
Emus
Camels
Long-nose bandicoot
Eastern barred bandicoot
Small bandicoot
Melomys (like a small mouse)
White tailed rat
Platypi
Tasmanian devils
Spotted quoll
Eastern quoll
Western quoll
Koalas
Wombats
dingoes
Dugong
Humpback whale
dolphins
Seals
Little penguins
Olive pythons
Tiger snakes
Tree snakes
Lots of lizards!
Rabbits
Many types of fish
eels
And of course lots and lots of birds, some rare and endangered

The trip drawing to a close...

We had a nice relaxing day in Merimbula today, which we really needed- a break from driving and chance to catch up on sleep. I went for a walk and swim this morning, then we both had a haircut, before heading to a nice little cafe for lunch. Wandering along the street, we spied a poster for a Bruce Mathiske concert (he's a well known and excellent guitarist, similar to Tommy Emmanuel). Adam was of course thrilled as he is a big fan. So by sheer luck, we are in the right place at the right time, and tonight off to see Bruce in concert. What a nice way to finish things up.

This afternoon we played tennis on the courts at the caravan park and got a few other bits and pieces done. So a pleasant day. It's actually great in many ways to be back on the east coast, with surf beaches and warmer weather etc. It already feels a lot more like home to us.

Tomorrow we arrive in Sydney and will have the pleasure of dinner out with our good friend Joanne and her partner Matthew - the catchup will be great!!

Am happy and sad. Naturally. Adam is plain happy ;-)

Love and hugs and see many of you very soon,
Emma and Adam
xx

Friday, February 16, 2007

A photo...more soon



Me on top of Mt Eliza. Those rocks you see is what the last hour of the climb is over. The gradient was steep and it was hard work. You can see the track snaking off to the carpark.

Have tried uploading more photos, but the internet service is just too slow, as is so often the case outside larger metro areas, so will put more up when we get back home in a few days- a kind of final gallery of snapshots from the last section of our journey.

NSW here we come

16th Feb

Well we made it across Bass Straight safe and sound, and with no vomit. The swell was a mere 1 metre, which according to the captain, is extremely rare for these waters.

We had the company of Mick and Sarah (the couple we met at 80 mile Beach, WA) on the boat, sharing stories and experiences. This was great fun and it made the time go so fast. Before we knew it, it was time to tuck up on one of the uncomfortable bar sofas for a few hours sleep. Despite the dopey and pissed back packing Euros (British included), we managed to get at least 4 hrs sleep.

We got off the boat at about 7.30, took a wrong turn (or two) and ended up in Melbourne city, but not long after we resumed our course for the coast of NSW. We arrived at Merimbula at 5pm and are staying directly opposite a nice beach for the next 2 nights. Tomorrow we are off to get hair cuts (so we look a bit more hip!!!), have a look at Pembula and if the arvo sea breeze comes in, a windsurf at the famous Merimbula main beach.

All is good. I am looking forward to getting home and surfing and sailing more before I re-commence work on March 1st. We also have a house to look for too. Emma is a bit more reserved about going home as there is plenty more of OZ to see, but we will be back at those places in the future for sure.

A+E xoxox

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Devils, quolls, platypi and great mountains...

Feb 14 Valentine’s Day

9pm

What a top two days we have had here in the “lost valley” at Mountain Valley Wilderness Cabins, in the middle of the mountains and wilderness in Tassie’s north west. We are probably only a 1.5hr drive from Devonport but it feels like we are a long way from main civilization- at the end of a dirt road, at the base of a lush and imposing mountain- Black Bluff, with beautiful Leven River flowing by just down the end of the track.

When we arrived here yesterday we walked to a lookout at Leven Canyon- an impressive place. I checked out the river and birdlife and we generally relaxed- so great to be in a rustic cabin in the mountains (and out of the caravan).

We lit the open wood fire, had a big dinner and then walked down to the river to watch the platypus at dusk. We saw at least 3 different ones- so awesome to see such timid native creatures in the wild.

We then settled in to wait for other wildlife. The owner of the cabins put some fresh meat out on our verandah to attract Tassie Devils and Quolls. We sat staring out and at 10.30 pm still no sign of wildlife. Shortly after though we sat up with excitement as a little devil approached the meat, nervously looking around. They are cautious creatures. The first devil started eating the meat and soon others arrived. We were very excited to see wild Tasmanian Devils- a rare thing to get to see them at all. We identified at least four different ones (they have different markings on them a bit like dogs of the same breed do). We sat up until midnight watching them.
Sadly we didn’t see any quolls- maybe tonight!
There were also possums and pademelons eating the fruit and veggie scraps we’ve put out.

This morning we had a nice breaky in bed for Valentine’s Day and exchanged cards. We then set out to walk up Black Bluff Mountain- another big 6 hour return steep hike (just for a change!!).

It was surprisingly mild today which actually made the walk tougher work as we were hot and sweaty. The climb was steep- we had to side about 1000 metres in total, to an elevation of 1300 metres.
About two thirds of the way up we reached a beautiful alpine lake- Paddy’s Lake. We saw rare Tasmanian mountain shrimp in the lake which the owner of our cabins (a real naturalist) told us to look out for. We then had our lunch. Adam then decided to head back down, while I headed on for the summit. There was not another person around- as I finally sat on the summit I had a real feeling of peace. To be surrounded by nature and sitting in solitude was great.
On the way back down both Adam and I encountered two large black snakes, laying right across the path. I was coming down the hill quite quickly and nearly stepped right on the first one before I knew it was there…I stopped dead in my tracks and backed away. The snake didn’t even move! I threw some rocks in the bush behind it and stamped my feet (from some distance away) and eventually it slithered away. They are apparently a Tasmanian Tiger snake…they appear totally black.


9.30 pm

I have just come back from standing on our wooden verandah with two quolls and one tassie devil eating meat right next to me!!! The fellow who runs the place had just finished putting out the meat and was standing beside me. He was pleased for us and I am very excited as is Adam. Adam was staring at them through the window. The quolls are beautiful looking creatures- quite small and cat like, with sleek bodies, brown fur and white spots, and narrow pointed faces.

Ok- now back on with my story of our day…

At the end of the walk Adam had a rest and I spent some time near the river birdwatching (I am such a cool and hip 33 year old I know). I was very happy to spy the little black headed honeyeater, which is endemic to Tassie. We’ve now seen all but one of the endemic birds down here.
I too then had a rest and read a book for a while and enjoyed the luxury of space and our own bathroom and kitchen. It’s the small things.

True to his word Adam cooked us up a big rich Valentine’s dinner…. We had steak, wrapped in cheese and bacon, roasted pumpkin and carrot & broccoli and cauliflower covered in a rich cheese cream sauce. Considering the light veggie stirfries and soups which have been our main dinner fare lately, it was a rich and yummy change!

After dinner I wandered back down to the river to see the platypi…I saw at least 3 different ones so I was really happy with that. I sat and watched the light fade around Black Bluff mountain, with lovely reflections of the gums on the water. This is a nice place to be.

As you know, we’ve since been watching wildlife, and having had a break since dinner, have just indulged in the planned sticky date pudding dessert, with cream. It was beautiful and I even ate seconds. Adam isn’t too sure where I managed to fit it. Lucky we’ve been doing so many big hikes lately!

So all in all, a terrific way to spend our last day/night in Tasmania. We both feel this is like the end to our trip in a way, as from here, the focus is simply on travelling home. We reflected tonight on our experiences, highlights of the trip, things we didn’t expect etc. It sure has been great fun, amazing, enriching, rewarding, relaxing, difficult, stressful and challenging- all rolled in together!

That’s it from me for now. We hope our boat trip back to Melbourne is a bit smoother than our trip out here!!

Love Emma & Adam xx

Feb 15

Finally have service again on the road back to Devonport. Just had a beautiful lunch in a seaside restaurant at Penguin on the north coast. Our first and last meal dining out in Tassie- and it was superb. Hope the boat trip isn’t rough! Probably will skip dinner just in case.

Will report back in from the mainland.

xx

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Awesome Cradle Mountain...

Feb 12

Howdy all- now into our last week of travel!!! Hard to believe that a week today (all going to plan) we will be back home in Port Macquarie. Adam is delighted at the thought as he has really really had it with the caravan- it is very tiny and many things don’t work properly. A proper bed, a proper bathroom, running water (we can no longer run water in the caravan) etc are all things which glisten on the horizon. I too miss those things and can’t wait to enjoy them again. On the other hand, for me anyway, I love travelling, seeing new things, exploring new places, and if finances etc allowed for it, I could probably keep going a bit longer. But it’s time to head for home once we return to the mainland from Tassie. Many new chapters about to begin for us, so lots to look forward to on our return to Port Macquarie.Plus,ofcourse,itwill be wonderful to see family and friends again.

Meantime, the past two days in Tassie have been among the best of our trip down here. We have been blessed with mainly sunny skies which certainly lifts the spirits and really makes the spectacular mountain landscape around us shine.

Yesterday we began our journey from Queenstown to Cradle Valley (Cradle Mountain). It was a lovely drive through hills and forests and wilderness. On the way we decided we’d turn off to see Montezuma Falls- the highest in tassie. We thought it would be an easy diversion and probably a short walk to the falls. It turned out to be a windy track to the falls, the last part unsealed and bumpy- not good for towing the caravan! We preserved and when we arrived saw it was a 10km, 3hr return walk to the falls- not exactly a short stroll! Luckily we read on the sign that the path was suitable for mountain bikes- so we decided to make it a ride rather than a walk and took down our bikes.

It was sunny and an absolutely beautiful bike ride along the dirt track to the waterfall. We rode through lovely cool rainforest, thick and green, with the sun slanting in through the trees. The falls themselves were impressive and the whole trip took us less than 1.5hrs. It was a great way to spend part of the morning- an unexpected highlight for us.

We continued on to Cradle Mountain and checked into our caravan park, which sits just outside the national park boundary. I decided to drive up to Dove Lake to do a walk for the afternoon, while Adam decided to have some downtime and read the paper. The afternoon cleared into perfect blue skies and the famous peaks of Cradle Mountain, with the lake below, looked awesome. I walked up to Crater Lake, past a couple of other lakes and had a top afternoon, as did Adam, relaxing on his own. Sometimes space for both of us when travelling together, and being together just about 24/7, is very essential!

Last night after dinner we went for a short walk around a stream nearby, as well as a drive into the national park, to look for wildlife. We saw about 4 wombats, waddling around on the open grasslands. We also had plenty of possums come around last night, plus pademelons and wallabies. We love seeing wildlife.

Today we rose early, ready to tackle the hard Cradle Mountain Summit, which according to the walking guide, takes 6-8 hours to complete. We arrived at the start of the track under dark, cloudy skies, with a bitterly cold wind blowing. It was 9 degrees, and with the wind chill, felt a lot colder than that. Both wearing two jumpers and me with my beanie on, we set out. Clouds and mist swirled around the peak, but most of the clouds seemed high and there were a few blue patches, so we crossed our fingers that the weather would improve as we hiked up.

Luckily it did improve, getting more and more sunny as we went. On the way up we passed lovely alpine lakes, with great views back over Dove Lake. What a blessing- to have mainly blue skies as we hiked Cradle Mountain. This area is known for its heavy rainfall, and bad weather. Clouds and mist are common, often obscuring views. Sudden weather changes can also occur.

Towards the end of the walk the track started to get very steep, as we approached the sheer, rocky, jagged spires of the Cradle Mountain Peak. As we looked up clouds skidded quickly past the summit. The wind was now very strong and very very cold. The track turned into more of a climb in places, up over big boulders. It was also steep. As a result Adam, with his fear of heights and suffering vertigo, decided to give the summit a miss. He wedged himself on some rocks, as much out of the wind as possible, although still freezing.

I continued on to the summit. From where I left Adam it didn’t seem like it would be very far. However the track went over a saddle and then continued slightly down the other side, before climbing up the back of the peak over more steep rocks. When I reached the top the views were amazing, with mountains and alpine grasslands and small lakes extending in all directions. The jagged sheer peaks of Cradle Mountain itself stretched in one direction and looking down at where I had climbed up made me proud of the achievement. I ate some snacks and then put the camera on self timer to capture an image of myself at the top to remember the moment. I then went as fast as I could over the rocks to get back to Adam (by now it had been more than an hour since I had left him and I figured he’d be frozen). It was pretty hairy climbing back down over some of the rocks (I’m not to keen on heights myself). When I reached Adam he was indeed icy cold and took a while to warm back up. As we descended though it soon got warmer and the sun stayed out.

We had terrific views as we took a different track back around Crater Lake. We walked across alpine meadows, and stretching above them was Cradle Mountain. We sat down in behind some rocks in the sun and out of the wind and ate our lunch. It was very peaceful and lovely. Then we continued back down and finished the hike.

Tomorrow we set off to a log cabin we have booked at a place called Mountain Valley, near Loongana. Basically it’s about an hour north from here, in the middle of the wilderness. There are a series of cabins there, on the banks of a river and nestled beneath Black Bluff. According to the brochures, wildlife is plentiful, so perhaps we will spy a platypus, quoll of Tasmanian Devil. Fingers Crossed. We are there for our final two nights in Tassie, including Valentine’s Day, when as Adam said in the last update, he’s planning to cook up a fancy dinner. We are thrilled we have two nights ahead out of the caravan in a wilderness cabin. More news soon! Love, Us xx

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Queenstown, Tassie

10th Feb

Today we travelled to Queenstown, which is about 38klm inland from the West Coast town of Strahan. We were unable to secure accommodation at Strahan, hence our unexpected stay at Queenstown.

Picture this…….We left the St Clair NP and travelled west through the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers NP, which is a very green, pristine wilderness and World Heritage area. We stopped at several walks along the way to see the Franklin and Surprise rivers. The rainforests were so cold and green, thick with massive tree ferns, Myrtles and moss. The river water was so clear it was like looking through glass at the river-stones below. Keep this scene in mind. On we traveled to Queenstown, which is an old mining town. As soon as we passed the “Welcome to Queenstown” sign, the change in the landscape was dramatic! It was still a very mountainous region, but travelling in………WOW….gone were the forest and greenery, the basalt and granite mountains totally exposed with current and old open cut mines, with stone everywhere, oxidizing due to the copper and iron ores that lie within. It just showed us how much damage man can actually do, considering this land would have been the same lush forest as little as 100 years or so ago! Our travels around the country have certainly made us much more aware of the damage we do as a species, both to the land and other animals (directly and indirectly). We have certainly become “greener” and I hope we continue to be so when we return to the luxuries of home.

The town of Queenstown is quite nice, no tourism glitz or glamour (as per Strahan), just a real town, with real workers and real shops for real people, not tourists! The van park itself is a little out of town and has a thick forest backdrop. We travelled to Strahan and had a bakery lunch and a walk to the water falls just out of the town centre. We drove on down to “hells gates”, which is the channel that leads from Strahan to the ocean, but despite it’s name, the conditions today were very calm, with an offshore breeze and waves no higher then 2ft!

We completed a big shop for fresh produce as we are back into wilderness for the next 4 nights. The next two nights will be in Cradle Mountain NP where we hope to summit Cradle Mountain weather permitting. The two nights following we will be in out wilderness lodge. It will be Valentines day during our stay at the lodge, so I plan to cook Emma a beautiful meal which I purchased provisions for today (Roast lamb + honey roasted pumpkin + Garlic and Cream potatoes + oven roasted carrots + Broccoli + garlic bread. For desert: Sticky date pudding + caramel sauce and Cream). It will be a luxury having a kitchen to cook this meal…..I would never attempt to even use the oven in the caravan to make this meal…….it would probably blow us up!

Any way…..Ciao for now

A&E xoxoxox

Friday, February 09, 2007

Lake St Clair NP

Feb 8th

At Lake St Clair now- our caravan is in a lovely spot right on the lake. The lake is the deepest in Tassie, carved out by glaciers in the last ice age. It’s surrounded by mountains and is very pretty. We did a series of short walks around the lake this afternoon. Saw another echidna- we’ve seen at least 10 since we’ve been in Tassie! We also relaxed by the lake for a while- I read a book and Adam played guitar (he’s getting ready to play a few tunes with you when we get back Dad!).
Will have a wander around after dinner to see if we can see any wildlife.

Last night Adam took the garbage out late and was lucky enough to spy an eastern quoll which was actually on the bin trying to raid the rubbish. I sadly did not get to see the quoll, but hopefully will spy one before we head back.

Tomorrow we intend to tackle another big mountain hike- to the summit of Mt Rufus, then on a circuit trail back down past an alpine lake. It’s another long walk, similar to Mt Eliza I guess. This walk is 18kms. Will see how the weather is first of course- in the mountains bad weather can roll in quickly and stop the visibility up high.

The weather is cool- was about 13 degrees when we arrived, but it was a mainly sunny afternoon which was nice.

Love, Us xx


Feb 9th……The taking of Rufus!

The Rufus summit and circuit was approx 19klm. Despite the length, the climb was not that difficult, so all in all the walk was quite enjoyable. The path went through eucalyptus woodlands, then to rainforest, onto Myrtle forest then the Alpine zone. Such a contrast in each zone, with a phase in and out of each zone being almost like a line in the dirt! The view was terrific with views over craggy peaks, glacial lakes and tarns as well as green forests.

We are both tired after our hiking conquests of the last two weeks and look forward to a rest day tomorrow as we head into Strahan for a look around. From there we go to Cradle Mtn NP…….so more hikes……………after all of this walking we must be getting some sort of fitness!

Bye

A+E

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Mt Eliza, Tassie

Howdy,

Today we climbed Mt Eliza in the South West NP. This baby is the second highest in the south of tassie. The weather at the start of the walk was 11 degrees C, with a nippy wind and splatters of sun coming through the very high cloud.

From the start I knew I would not be friends with Eliza………would you????.......a 6 hour trail, steep up to the peak with some climbing, then straight back down! From the start it was tough with large steps cut into one of the many hills at the foot of the mountain we were to conquer. It was tough, with some real hairy climbing involved near the summit. On the way up we saw two very rare birds, the Southern Emu-wren, and the elusive Ground Parrot. Emma was most pleased……and I was too, especially as the ground parrot is an endangered species.

Some trekkers stay overnight near the peak of Eliza in a little hut, then tackle the Anne peak, a few saddles over, We neither had the time or inclination to do this, despite Anne being the tallest (only by a bit) and nastiest peak in the south.

The views from the peak were splendid, we could see many tarns (small bodies of water that exist from the melting of snow), a large glacial lake with amazingly steep rock sides, as well as a huge lake with many islands to the west, of course with the menacing Mt Anne peak shrouded in cloud.

A horrifying experience was the almost full pit toilet at the Hut near at Eliza’s peak,,,,,,,,but that is another story!

We are doing some twilight walking to Russell falls tonight to see if we can spot an Eastern Quoll, which is another endangered little bugger which is thought to be extinct on mainland Oz. We walked through there last night and apart from the nocturnal animals that emma has already mentioned, we were amazed by the glow worms spread about the forest. They were like mini glow sticks in brightness, and with so many they looked like the fairy lights you put up around Christmas.

Anyway, all for now…..off to lake St Claire NP tomorrow.

Ciao……A + E xoxoxoxo

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Mt Field National Park and a long alpine walk


We arrived at Mt Field National Park this morning earlier than expected. We set up and picked up a walks brochure from the visitor centre, deciding we had time to set out on a long alpine walk (something we hadn’t planned for today). The weather was also in our favour, having cleared to a mainly sunny day, a good chance to go walking in the mountains.

We drove up to Mt Dobson, in the sub-alpine section of this park and then embarked on a 6 hour hike, to the top of the mountain range, along a ridge which was full of boulders we had to climb over (tiring work). The views were great and we sat and had some lunch on the boulders. When we set out in the carpark it was only 10 degrees, and in the breeze at the top it felt quite a bit cooler than that! The view reminded us of something from Lord of the Rings. We skirted around many alpine lakes on the way down- quite beautiful with many alpine flowers. The ground was really wet and in some sections we walked over ponds of water on boardwalks.
When we finished we drove back down to the campground at the base of the park and then did another short walk, despite being pretty tired. We walked in to see Russell Falls, some of the most popular in Tassie and really pretty- the water cascading down in several thin layers, a bit like a veil. From there we trekked on a little further to see Horseshoe Falls, another nice spot.
Back to the caravan then and a well-earned and needed hot shower and dinner. Then we set out on the short walk to Russell Falls again in the hope of seeing some nocturnal animals (the national park’s guide suggests it). It was about 9pm and we saw LOTS of pademelons, hopping around everywhere, plus lots of possums. We saw a bandicoot, and a more unusual and rare banded bandicoot (he had brown stripes across his bottom and was very cute). We were hoping to spot a quoll, but no such luck tonight. Maybe tomorrow night.

It’s about bedtime now (Adam has already crashed). We have another long hike planned for tomorrow in the nearby Southwest National Park. The weather here is so cool it's hard to remember it's summer. We feel like we had summer in winter when we were at the top of the country, and now we are down south and it feels like winter in summer. :-) It's really refreshing and nice though- good for walking too.

All is going well generally, although we are both pretty much over living in the caravan. Haven’t killed each other yet though, and we are nearly home, so we think we have survived the better part of a year living in this tiny box together pretty well!

More news from us soon.
Love Emma & Adam xx

Monday, February 05, 2007

Some Tassie highlights so far...

Adam reclining in the outdoor hot tub of our Bruny Island mountain retreat- look at the views and the food goodies ready for us to enjoy



This pic was taken using the timer at the top of Hartz Mountain, south west of Hobart....awesome views over the ranges and some alpine lakes.

Bruny Island- a relaxing retreat

Feb 3rd

Hello from Bruny Island- a large island just off the coast south of Hobart. We took the ferry over here this morning and drove around the northern part of the island before heading to Adventure Bay to do a coastal bushwalk. The island is very scenic- rolling hills, bushland and farmland, clear blue water and a large area of wilderness in the south, which is a national park. Our bushwalk took us past steep cliffs and some lovely rocky coastline. Adam was lucky enough to see one of the island’s white wallabies- it hopped onto the path in front of him (I was walking ahead). After the walk the sun came out from behind the clouds and I decided, in the cool 17 degree weather to go in for a swim on Bruny Island! The water was FREEZING but it was fun to jump in and I certainly came out refreshed.

We then drove up to the cottage we had booked for the night. When we arrived there was someone elses belongings inside. We felt quite dismayed as we were tired and had been so looking forward to a break from the caravan and an afternoon to relax in some space and privacy of our own. I rang the accommodation service who could not explain the mix up but nevertheless secured another mountain cottage for us for the night. This one is actually better than the first and the booking service is covering the extra cost for this night. It’s in the wilderness near the south of the island. We are surrounding by hilly bushland, with the ocean in the distance. It’s very peaceful. There is a balcony outside with a large outdoor hot tub. The tub is a design which is actually heated by a fire, so we are waiting for the water to get hot enough so we can jump in. Hopefully some wildlife will be around tonight. There are also lots of small birds, wrens, finches, robins etc.
It is so nice here we have decided to stay an extra night and return to Hobart the following morning to do some city exploring and Cadbury chocolate factory tour (hopefully). The day after (6th) we’ll hit the road again. We just decided that we needed this little retreat, with a proper bed and bathroom and this lovely mountain setting, as we’ve both been feeling pretty tired and fed up with the caravan lately. So an unexpected little highlight in Tassie here on Bruny Island.

Feb 4th

We love this place and real relaxation has begun to seep into our bones. So glad we decided to stay the second night in our wonderful mountain retreat here on Bruny Island. As I type I can see a bright red flame robin on one fence post, with an electric blue fairy wren on another.

Last night we soaked in the wonderful hot tub and watched as huge brushtail possums clambered around on the balcony right next to us eating the apple we had left out hoping to attract some wildlife.
We slept well and slept in this morning, before sitting on the deck and enjoying French toast with locally grown blueberries and raspberries.

Then it was off to explore the south bruny national park. A surfing comp was actually on this weekend at cloudy bay and we had a quick look there- the guys were wearing thick wetsuits and some had on hoods as well. Like I said, the water is very cold.
We then set off on a bushwalk around a peninsula. Saw lots of birds, including some new honeyeaters, endemic to Tassie. We passed a secluded beach with white sand and clear water, on the way back so I of course, decided to go for a swim. I didn’t have my cossie with me, so it was another nude dash into the icy water. It was very refreshing and good fun.
After the walk we visited the historic lighthouse with awesome coastal views over steep headlands.
Then it was back to our mountain retreat, for a soak in the hot tub, time read our books and the paper, and to eat a plate of Tasmanian goodies- local brie, blueberries and raspberries and a pear and hazelnut fruit paste to accompany the cheese. Yep. This is the life. It will be all back to normal soon for us, so we are soaking it up! Produce is cheap here and the food is good.

Tonight we are about to head off and see the resident penguin colony- the birds should be returning from their day’s fishing soon (it’s about 8pm). We hope to see some wallabies on the way- I hope I get to see a white one too!

When we get back I’d say we’ll have a final soak in the hot tub and watch the possums again. Back to the caravan tomorrow. Making the most of this retreat.
Love and hugs,
Emma & Adam xx


Feb 5

Back in Hobart- we arrived back from Bruny at about midday- on the drive back to Hobart we picked up some more local fruit and veg. Then it was off to the Cadbury Factory to do their tour and of course buy lots of cheap factory priced chocolate- YUM. We have just been devouring some choccie almonds and freddo frogs. Luckily we have a hike planned for tomorrow.
This afternoon I went into Hobart to have a better look around and do a bit of a walking tour through the historic Battery Point area. So lovely, old houses with beautiful gardens…like an old English village. I love this city.

We are off tomorrow as sadly time here is limited. We are going to Mt Field National Park for a couple of nights.

Oh- also we saw the penguins come in last night…such cute little things. Then we had a hot tub, looked at the sky and watched the possums devouring the apple we put out again.

More news soon.
xx

Friday, February 02, 2007

A tassie image...


Lovely Halls Falls on the road from Launceston to the east coast- another one of our self portraits with the camera on timer resting precariously on a rock.


Lovely Hobart- a great city

Feb 1st

A sunny day-hooray! On our way to Hobart we stopped off at a berry farm and Sorrell where we picked up some fruit sauce and strawberries. It was then on to one of Tassie’s most historic towns- Richmond, which has Australia’s oldest bridge and is a very pretty little place. Adam bought a tassie scallop pie from the bakery- it tasted so good I had to go and get one for lunch too. They are pretty popular down here.
We then wound our way into Hobart- our caravan park is about 10km north of the city itself in a lovely quiet spot right on the banks of the Derwent River- we actually have a great view of water and mountains, which came as a pleasant surprise.
We quickly set up and then went to Cascade Brewery- we did the tour and then sat in their historic gardens in the sun and sampled some beer. Very relaxing. We sat with a fellow from America who was there on his own- he’s currently travelling the world and we exchanged a few travel tales.
After that we drove up Mt Wellington- it’s about 1200metres high and towers over Hobart. Hobart is such a lovely city! Great old buildings and surrounded by water and mountains. We did a short bushwalk about halfway down the mountain, before taking a quick drive around Hobart’s waterfront/restaurant area to have a look. Another long but fun day for us. With another on the way tomorrow- a big hike planned.
Cheers,
The Wanderers.


Feb 2nd

Another clear sunny start to the day so we decided to head southwest of Hobart and tackle a mountain hike in the Hartz Mountains National Park- down past Huonville. It took us close to an hour and a half to drive down there, with the last part a winding dirt road into the national park and a beautiful alpine region.
The walk was list as being 9km and a 4 hour round trip. On the way up the mountain we passed several lovely alpine lakes. We sat at the first one and enjoyed the view. It was a great walk up, a lot of it on boards through a wet, open alpine environment, lots of rocks, flowering grasses and small shrubs, with water trickling down. We had great views on the way and the last part of the walk was a pretty steep climb over rocks. We clambered up to the peak, at an elevation of about 1250m. It was windy and cool at the top. We climbed onto the actual peak together and took in amazing views of the south west mountains and world heritage wilderness area. Just stunning. So much emptiness and beauty. The perfect reward for the hike up. We sat and ate our lunch before heading back down.

We then drove back towards Hobart, making a much needed stop for groceries on the way back (we’ve been so busy and on the go the past couple of weeks our food supply, and back up food box was looking pretty slim- we were also nearly out of clean clothes before we finally did some washing today).

Tomorrow we are going out to Bruny Island and staying there the night. A friend highly recommended the island for its scenery and wildlife so we are really looking forward to it. We are also REALLY looking forward to a night out of the caravan. We are staying in a self-contained beachhouse for the night- set high on a hill with ocean views.

Sending love home…will be able to catch up with most of you again soon.

Love Emma & Adam xx

Thursday, February 01, 2007

More Tassie Tales

30th Jan

We have now seen two of what are usually considered highlights in Tasmania- beautiful Wineglass Bay on the east coast, near Coles Bay and the Tasman Peninsula and Port Arthur convict ruins.
We walked to Wineglass beach yesterday and actually had a swim just for the fun of it (the air and the water both VERY cool). The beach is so beautiful and looked wonderful from the lookout above, a small crescent shaped strip of white sand, surrounding by green mountains.
We ate our standard walking fare of tuna and crackers and then finished the 11km circuit walk back around Hazards Beach and back to Coles Bay. We saw a few wallabies and some nice views, but apart from that it was a fairly plain sort of walk out.
We then drove up to a nearby lookout. I was about to take a photo when I heard someone yell out a surprised hello to me. It was a couple we first met in Broome, then again at 80 Mile Beach, then Port Headland, as we travelled down the west coast. Mick and Sarah are about the same age as us, and set off from the east coast on their trip around Oz just a couple of weeks before we did. It was really great to bump into them again and a big surprise, as we have travelled slightly different paths and didn’t think we’d see them on the road again. We all sat down and had a drink and chatted and swapped stories, highlights and lowlights from our travels so far. Hopefully we’ll see them again- perhaps when they pass through Port Macquarie, as I think we’ll be home before they intend to travel through.
After a good afternoon I went for a walk around the beach at Coles Bay- the wind stopped and the sun just shone through a gap in the clouds- it looked really beautiful and serene.
We had breaky at the local bakery this morning which was nice, before we set off for Port Arthur. On the way we stopped at a berry farm at Swansea and bought a nice mixed berry jam and some jam tarts for later.
When we arrived here at Port Arthur it was misty and pouring rain. We felt a bit deflated. But we set up the caravan and had some lunch and the skies began to clear. The wind picked up and turned into a bit of an icy gale, but the reward was mainly blue skies. So we set off to explore the convict ruins at Port Arthur. We were very impressed, not only by the buildings and houses, but more so by the stunning surrounding environment, the beautiful harbour, mountains and the gardens and manicured lawns at the site itself. We went on a short harbour cruise (included in the entry fee) and also a guided walk where the history of the settlement and some colourful tales were told by a very interesting guide. It was very cold in the harsh wind, but the place shone in the sunshine and the blue skies provided a great backdrop to the scenery around us.
We returned then to our lovely caravan park- spacious and each site surrounded by trees. There are lots of birds here, including green rosellas only found in Tassie. We’ve also seen lots of fairy wrens, flame robins and honeyeaters. There are rabbits around too- and also wallabies etc (all though we haven’t seen one yet). We would love to see a Tasmanian Devil in the wild.
Off to do some bushwalks in the national park here tomorrow, and also to go to the Tasmanian Devil Centre, where they look after injured or orphaned devils and you can watch them being fed. Should be fun.
Only about 3 weeks until we expect to be home now! Happy and sad about that.
Love and hugs,
Emma & Adam xx


31st Jan

Today we started our day with a trip to the Tasmainian Devil Centre located just outside Port Arthur. This centre is partially funded by the government to breed Devils and care for injured devils. There is currently a cancer/tumor like disease running through the wild devil population, and it is very contagious, so the devil population is declining rapidly, so enterprises such as this could possibly save the devils from extinction. I found the devils quite cute, like a little dog (with big teeth and a jaw pressure that equals a great white shark!). Emma thought that they looked a little odd as their powerful back legs and hips are lower to the ground then their front legs and shoulders…..making them run a little like a Hyena. They played, shrieked and fought over food, just as I had read they do….I left thoroughly enjoying my devil experience. Near the end of our trip we are staying deep in the wilderness of the NW, and they claim to often have wild devils as well as wild quolls visit at night. Seeing such endangered animals in the wild would be a treat.

Anyway, onto some local attractions (blowholes and rock formations) and a great walk out to a high waterfall, cascading straight into the ocean……something like I would expect to see in Tahiti. The bay beneath this water fall is popular for scuba divers that engage in cave diving, seeing spectacular kelp gardens and brightly coloured algaes and seadragons in the 60m long caves……the water was so deep, but clear……..personally I wouldn’t be able to get my head around this being a prime Great White breeding and feeding area to even contemplate getting in the water.

We had some lunch from a local caravan at the beach! I had local fish and the best chips ever, and Emma had a locally caught crayfish on a sandwhich. For desert we had locally grown berries with home made ice cream and cream topped with a berry coulas. Top lunch to refuel for the next chapter of the day!

Off we head to the Fortesque NP, and end up doing a long and energetic walk out to Cape Huen where the rock formations known as the stacks (or pillars) exist. The formations look like large columns stacked together to make a mountain. When we get good internet reception we will post a few pictures. Emma went on another brief walk to see if she could get a few piccies of some penguins, but they must have been out fishing.

Off to Hobart tomorrow, doing some cool things like visiting the Cascade Brewery to sample their finery, as well as the Cadbury factory to do the same. Emma will no doubt have some bush walks in mind for us to do too

Over and out

A+E







The remotely cruel, but beautiful Port Arthur











Me, purched upon a boulder overlooking beautiful Wineglass Bay










Tassie Devil, comin to get ya!