Devils, quolls, platypi and great mountains...

Feb 14 Valentine’s Day

9pm

What a top two days we have had here in the “lost valley” at Mountain Valley Wilderness Cabins, in the middle of the mountains and wilderness in Tassie’s north west. We are probably only a 1.5hr drive from Devonport but it feels like we are a long way from main civilization- at the end of a dirt road, at the base of a lush and imposing mountain- Black Bluff, with beautiful Leven River flowing by just down the end of the track.

When we arrived here yesterday we walked to a lookout at Leven Canyon- an impressive place. I checked out the river and birdlife and we generally relaxed- so great to be in a rustic cabin in the mountains (and out of the caravan).

We lit the open wood fire, had a big dinner and then walked down to the river to watch the platypus at dusk. We saw at least 3 different ones- so awesome to see such timid native creatures in the wild.

We then settled in to wait for other wildlife. The owner of the cabins put some fresh meat out on our verandah to attract Tassie Devils and Quolls. We sat staring out and at 10.30 pm still no sign of wildlife. Shortly after though we sat up with excitement as a little devil approached the meat, nervously looking around. They are cautious creatures. The first devil started eating the meat and soon others arrived. We were very excited to see wild Tasmanian Devils- a rare thing to get to see them at all. We identified at least four different ones (they have different markings on them a bit like dogs of the same breed do). We sat up until midnight watching them.
Sadly we didn’t see any quolls- maybe tonight!
There were also possums and pademelons eating the fruit and veggie scraps we’ve put out.

This morning we had a nice breaky in bed for Valentine’s Day and exchanged cards. We then set out to walk up Black Bluff Mountain- another big 6 hour return steep hike (just for a change!!).

It was surprisingly mild today which actually made the walk tougher work as we were hot and sweaty. The climb was steep- we had to side about 1000 metres in total, to an elevation of 1300 metres.
About two thirds of the way up we reached a beautiful alpine lake- Paddy’s Lake. We saw rare Tasmanian mountain shrimp in the lake which the owner of our cabins (a real naturalist) told us to look out for. We then had our lunch. Adam then decided to head back down, while I headed on for the summit. There was not another person around- as I finally sat on the summit I had a real feeling of peace. To be surrounded by nature and sitting in solitude was great.
On the way back down both Adam and I encountered two large black snakes, laying right across the path. I was coming down the hill quite quickly and nearly stepped right on the first one before I knew it was there…I stopped dead in my tracks and backed away. The snake didn’t even move! I threw some rocks in the bush behind it and stamped my feet (from some distance away) and eventually it slithered away. They are apparently a Tasmanian Tiger snake…they appear totally black.


9.30 pm

I have just come back from standing on our wooden verandah with two quolls and one tassie devil eating meat right next to me!!! The fellow who runs the place had just finished putting out the meat and was standing beside me. He was pleased for us and I am very excited as is Adam. Adam was staring at them through the window. The quolls are beautiful looking creatures- quite small and cat like, with sleek bodies, brown fur and white spots, and narrow pointed faces.

Ok- now back on with my story of our day…

At the end of the walk Adam had a rest and I spent some time near the river birdwatching (I am such a cool and hip 33 year old I know). I was very happy to spy the little black headed honeyeater, which is endemic to Tassie. We’ve now seen all but one of the endemic birds down here.
I too then had a rest and read a book for a while and enjoyed the luxury of space and our own bathroom and kitchen. It’s the small things.

True to his word Adam cooked us up a big rich Valentine’s dinner…. We had steak, wrapped in cheese and bacon, roasted pumpkin and carrot & broccoli and cauliflower covered in a rich cheese cream sauce. Considering the light veggie stirfries and soups which have been our main dinner fare lately, it was a rich and yummy change!

After dinner I wandered back down to the river to see the platypi…I saw at least 3 different ones so I was really happy with that. I sat and watched the light fade around Black Bluff mountain, with lovely reflections of the gums on the water. This is a nice place to be.

As you know, we’ve since been watching wildlife, and having had a break since dinner, have just indulged in the planned sticky date pudding dessert, with cream. It was beautiful and I even ate seconds. Adam isn’t too sure where I managed to fit it. Lucky we’ve been doing so many big hikes lately!

So all in all, a terrific way to spend our last day/night in Tasmania. We both feel this is like the end to our trip in a way, as from here, the focus is simply on travelling home. We reflected tonight on our experiences, highlights of the trip, things we didn’t expect etc. It sure has been great fun, amazing, enriching, rewarding, relaxing, difficult, stressful and challenging- all rolled in together!

That’s it from me for now. We hope our boat trip back to Melbourne is a bit smoother than our trip out here!!

Love Emma & Adam xx

Feb 15

Finally have service again on the road back to Devonport. Just had a beautiful lunch in a seaside restaurant at Penguin on the north coast. Our first and last meal dining out in Tassie- and it was superb. Hope the boat trip isn’t rough! Probably will skip dinner just in case.

Will report back in from the mainland.

xx