El Questro

Howdy everyone! We have just had a fantastic five nights at El Questro- now heading into the Bungle Bungles to go camping. Hope you are all well….thinking of you and sending you our love. Here’s our latest news (we are updating just while we briefly have internet reception before going offline again!):

August 24

After a huge repack of the car and caravan so that all our camping gear is now in the car ready for a trip into the Bungle Bungles straight from El Questro, we set off on the now well known Gibb River Road (4wd and very bumpy) into El Questro, a cattle station/tourist wilderness resort which covers nearly a million acres of the stunning Kimberley region.

We stopped on the way to the Station Township to do the Emma Gorge walk- it loved up to its terrific name (!) – a stunning walk with a beautiful swimming hole at the end (and freezing water which was very refreshing after the 35 degree walk in!).

We then checked into our bungalow which I long ago booked as a break from the van or tent (what a treat! 5 nights out of the van).

But when we walked over to our bungalow we discovered we weren’t located right on the Pentecost River and we did not have a balcony (the brochures had showed bungalows with private riverside balconies). When we walked inside our disappointment grew. We had lashed out and spent some of our hard-saved cash on an expensive bungalow which really wasn’t anything better than a basic motel room! We gave each other a despondent look and sat on the bed feeling sorry for ourselves. If we hadn’t been so desperate for a little luxury or expected so much, it might not have felt so bad. But the fact was we really felt let down.

In the end I resolved to see if we could change bungalows and move into one of the much more impressive buildings we could see a little further along the river. Ones which actually did look like the photos in the brochures, complete with balconies and a riverside setting.

As luck would have it, someone had cancelled and we were able to change rooms. We happily handed back the key to the “Dingo” bungalow (they are all named after different Australian wildlife) and promptly moved into the “Echidna”.

The change was remarkable. Apart from the lovely setting, Echidna had polished wooden floor boards instead of tiles, a decorative wooden headpiece around the bed and of course, a private balcony instead of a fairly public concrete porch. The air conditioning was on and the room was a cool oasis compared to the 36 degree day outside. To my girlish delight there were plenty of lovely freebies in the bathroom from “grapefruit, tangerine and coconut” body wash to “lavender, rosemary and mint” shampoo.

One thing we would really have liked though, was a kitchenette. For some reason we had both incorrectly assumed there would some basic self-catering facilities in the bungalow and were a bit surprised when we realized there was nothing beyond a mini-fridge and tea and coffee making facilities. Luckily we have our own plates and cutlery, along with a swag of food, our camp gas oven and the fridge, in the back of the car. Not wanting to eat out at the expensive Station Restaurant every night, we are ready to improvise.

In the late afternoon we drove up a steep 4wd road to a lookout to watch the sunset over the ruggedly beautiful landscape…it was a tapestry of colours…browns, greens and yellow and orange, with the vivid blue sky and finally, the sinking red ball of the sun.

Augst 25

An awesome day today- we love the Kimberley and El Questro. Started by going to thermal springs (poor Ad slipped and had a nasty fall on the rocks) set in a beautiful palm filled gorge.

We then embarked on a 130km 4wd circuit around the Cockburn Ranges. Stunning scenery, some challenging driving, and we didn’t see another car or person all day!!! We were out more than six hours on the drive. Stopped by a riverbank and had lunch in the peace and quiet, watching the birds fish. We drove past swamps, cattle, along huge salt plans and mud flats, up hills, along rivers…it was great and very diverse.

Later on we watched the sunset light up the rocky range…a great end to the day.

Then what a treat to return to a proper room, instead of the caravan with our own bathroom, full sized bed and some SPACE!

Agust 26-27

El Questro and the Kimberley continues to REALLY impress us- a true highlight of our entire trip so far (and of course staying in the bungalow is helping as we have lovely relaxation time inbetween long hot bushwalks). Yesterday we did the terrific El Questro Gorge walk- fairly challenging walk up a narrow gorge with lovely clear swimming spots along the way, including a terrific waterfall and plunge pool right at the end. Very scenic, sheer rock walls, palms etc, lots of climbing over rocks and boulders on the way (we even had to go through a stream and Adam had to carry ourbackpack above his head! Me, the shortie, could barely touch bottom!

Last night there was entertainment on here…and Ernie Dingo and a crew from the Great Outdoors were there filming etc…they must be doing a segment on this area. It was a fun night.

Today we did another long walk (10km) to a place called Champagne Springs…a waterfall and swimming spot in the river. Another challenging and rewarding walk. The walk out was bloody hot though and quite exposed to the sun. We are now resting. I am sitting on our balcony watchng the birds and reading books and magazines etc. Adam is having a siesta. Ah, the life we lead….

Tonight we are having dinner out- yum, can’t wait – we are both hungry already after today’s exertions.

August 28, 2006

Our final day at EQ sadly! Last nights dinner was superb! Fresh barra flavoured with wild bush spices and a macadamia crust, drizzled with a wattle cream sauce. Yum. Followed by apple crumble and ice cream for me and sticky date pudding for Adam.

Today we did another gorge walk and had a swim, and this afternoon went for a cruise on Chamberlain Gorge, where we saw some more rock art and were served champagne and fruit on the way back.

Packing up tonight and preparing to go from this to a tent tomorrow night in the bungle bungles!